The Mammut Smart Alpine is most easily described as a modified tube-style device. The Reverso 4 has scalloped sidewalls for weight savings, and as the Black Diamond device, an enlarged hole for the auto lock release. The current version of the ATC Guide has cutouts in the sidewalls and a larger hole (in comparison to previous models) for the auto lock release. Both devices feature multiple friction modes and a ‘guide mode’ for bringing up seconds. The BD and Petzl device have undergone numerous permutations over the years. A fairly new contender is the Mammut Smart Alpine, a tube-style device with the ability to autolock in the event of a leader fall, and a plate-style device rarely seen amongst recreational climbers but quite common with guides, the Camp Ovo. Enjoy the hulking triceps you will develop.There are probably a hundred different belay devices on the market, yet around here, only two are commonly seen on climbers’ harness: the Black Diamond ATC Guide and the Petzl Reverso. Set yourself up directly over the second, and pull up slack on the second's line before pulling it through the device. If you don't feel like running out and dropping the coin on a Gri-Gri, a Rocklock or William might help, but the biggest thing is careful rope management. Since you already have an ATC Guide and 10mm rope, I know that doesn't help a lot. If I'm really climbing something long and hard we will be using thin ropes (8.5 doubles or 9.2 single), either of which is just fine in my Reverso 3 (or ATC Guide). It does require extra care in rigging, but if I'm hauling my 10.2 around we are just doing relaxed cragging anyway. There's so much energy saved at the top that the weight is worth it. I've since realized that it's a net gain for me to just haul a Gri-Gri up the climb with me to belay the second. I've tried many biners (including the Positron), and the big, round stock like the Rocklock is best - but still not fun. My Reverso 3 is slightly better, and my B-52 is hugely better. I have a 10.2mm rope for general cragging, and it's very hard to feed in the ATC guide. I have a nice supple 9.8 that works really well.Agreed. 10 mil rope in that device, in auto-lock mode, is too thick.
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